Byzantine dress
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[edit] Overview
Byzantine Dress changed vastly over the centuries. In the early stages of the Byzantine Empire the traditional Roman toga was popular. By Justinian's time the upper classes had discarded this for a tunic (for males) or a stola (for females), covered by a long elaborate coat of brocade. In later periods the Arabic Turbans and caps were considered fashionable. Also, many beards were common as shaving was considered a vulgar western practice. The Byzantines chose very bright, expressive colours.
[edit] Background
It is said one could stand in the Forum of Constantine and see a rainbow of colours. However, purple was reserved for the royal family due to its expense. Lower class people wore simple tunics but still had the preference for bright colours prevalent in all Byzantine fashions, which were incredibly varied even over short time periods. Popularity and taste seemed to be inextricably linked (at least where the middle classes and upper classes were concerned) with what latest fashions were at the Imperial Court.
The semicircular cloak seemed to have been the most popular. Emperor Justinian wore one as well as his guards. The length usually fell to about the hips or buttocks and on each straight side there might be a tablion. The tablion was a decorative spot sometimes used to show the rank of the wearer by the type of embroidery and jewels that were used. The imperial cloak of the Holy Roman Emperors is still in existence and is a fine example of the Byzantine style. Each element of the cloak is outlined in pearls and embroidered in gold. Sometimes an oblong cloak would be worn. This was more of a military cloak and not generally worn for court occasions. Cloaks would be pinned on the right shoulder for ease of movement.
[edit] Hats
There were very few styles of hat for men in Byzantium. A small type of Phrygian cap was seen in the earliest times, (before the 9th century). Mostly, men went bareheaded. In the 12th century, Emperor Andronikos Komnenos was seen wearing a smoke colored hat shaped like a pyramid. In 1159 Prince Raynald of Chatillon was seen with a tiara shaped felt cap, embellished in gold. An Iberian wide brimmed felt hat came into vogue during the 12th century and the turban also began to be seen more frequently. In the northern reaches of the Byzantine sphere, small caps with or without fur brims were seen.
[edit] Shoes
Not too much is seen for shoes in Byzantine Art. The Ravenna mosaics show the men wearing what appears to be sandals with white socks. Other Imperial portraits show only the tips of the shoes. In Houston, there is shown a shoe from the Imperial regalia of the Holy Roman Emperors. It is a short boot, only to the ankle, which is cut to allow many different sizes to be accommodated. This shoe is lavishly decorated. Lots of pearls and gems give a very regal look. There is gold scrollwork on the sides and over the toe of the shoe. Outside laborers would either have sandals or be barefoot. The sandals follow the Roman model of straps over a thick sole. Some examples of the Roman cuculus or military boot are also seen on shepherds. Red sandals marked the Emperor; blue shoes, a sebastokrator; and green shoes a protovestiarios.
[edit] Superhumeral
This was the imperial decorative collar. It is difficult to determine whether any but royalty wore the collar. It is, however, one of the most recognizable parts of Byzantine clothing. It could be of cloth of gold or similar material, then studded with gems and/or immense amounts of embroidery. The decoration was general divided into compartments by vertical lines on the collar. The edges would be done in pearls of varying sizes in up to three rows. There were occasionally drop pearls placed at intervals to add to the richness. Rarely was the base fabric distinguishable after the decoration was applied. The collar would come over the collarbone to cover a portion of the upper chest. The collar was also a part of the ecclesiastical pallium. The men's version of the pallium was wide and rectangular. The back portion of the pallium would be cut fairly long so that it could be wrapped about the body and hang gracefully over the left arm. This is a distinct holdover from the Roman toga. Sometimes it looks as if the collar was being worn over a jeweled tabard. It is impossible to say whether they were attached. The superhumeral was worn throughout the history of Byzantium.
